Click here to check out the official IFSC website for a comprehensive overview and full results of the competition.
The 2024 International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) World Cup made its fifth stop of the season in Koper, Slovenia, on September 6th and 7th. The picturesque town of Koper, nestled along Slovenia’s coastline, hosted what would become one of the most exciting and intense Lead climbing competitions of the year. With top climbers from around the globe vying for victory, the event proved to be a fitting showcase of strength, technique, and mental focus.
A Homecoming for Janja Garnbret
One of the most anticipated stories leading into the event was the return of Slovenian climbing superstar Janja Garnbret. A household name in both the climbing world and beyond, Garnbret had already established herself as one of the most dominant athletes in the sport. Fresh off her Olympic success, where she took home the combined gold, the hometown crowd in Koper was eager to see their national hero in action.
From the start, Garnbret did not disappoint. She topped both qualification routes and followed up with a spectacular performance in the semi-finals, securing the only top of the round. Entering the finals as the clear favorite, Garnbret faced immense pressure as she climbed last in front of the expectant home crowd. Despite this, she exhibited incredible composure as she ascended the route with relative ease, moving gracefully past the cruxes and steadily approaching the top.
However, even the best can have moments of imperfection. As Garnbret neared hold 47, just shy of topping the route, a minor foot slip halted her progress, resulting in a fall. Despite the small slip, her lead was insurmountable, and she clinched her third gold medal of the season in the Lead discipline. “I enjoyed myself on the wall today, even though I didn’t top,” Garnbret remarked after the competition.
The Women’s Podium: Pilz and Sanders Shine
Behind Garnbret on the women’s podium were two other top-tier athletes: Jessica Pilz of Austria and Annie Sanders of the United States. Pilz, an Olympic bronze medalist, delivered a consistent and strong performance throughout the event. Although she fell at hold 40+, her efforts earned her a well-deserved silver medal.
The breakout star of the women’s event, however, was 17-year-old Annie Sanders. Competing in only her second World Cup final, Sanders impressed everyone with her poise and ability to handle the pressure of such a high-stakes competition. She fell just one hold below Pilz at hold 39+, securing the bronze medal, her first-ever World Cup podium finish.
The Men’s Final: A Battle Between Toby Roberts and Sorato Anraku
In the men’s competition, the rivalry between Toby Roberts of Great Britain and Sorato Anraku of Japan took center stage. Both athletes have been standout figures in the 2024 season, with Roberts emerging as the Olympic gold medalist in Paris and Anraku taking silver. The event in Koper was another chance for the two climbers to test each other, with Anraku topping both the qualification and semi-final rounds.
The final route, however, proved to be a true test of endurance and technique. Roberts showcased his aggressive climbing style, pushing through to set a high point at hold 40 before succumbing to the route’s difficulty. His perseverance earned him the gold medal, his second Lead World Cup victory of the season and fourth gold medal overall, including bouldering events.
Anraku, climbing last, looked smooth and composed as he made his way through the route but slipped at hold 35, giving him the silver medal. France’s Sam Avezou took the bronze, setting a high point at hold 31+.
The Top 3 Finishers
| Category | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
|---|---|---|---|
| Women’s Lead | Janja Garnbret (Slovenia) | Jessica Pilz (Austria) | Annie Sanders (USA) |
| Men’s Lead | Toby Roberts (Great Britain) | Sorato Anraku (Japan) | Sam Avezou (France) |
The Rise of Koper as a Climbing Hub
Koper’s role as a host for the IFSC World Cup has grown in significance in recent years. This coastal Slovenian town has now hosted three consecutive Lead World Cups since 2022, becoming an important venue on the global climbing circuit. The local enthusiasm for the sport, spurred on by Janja Garnbret’s success, has made Koper a prime location for world-class climbing events.
